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Car Sickness &
Toilet Training A New Spitz Puppy
Dr Sing Kong Yuen,
BVMS (Glasgow), MRCVS
First written: Nov 19, 2009. |
Wednesday, Nov 18, 2009
I don't know whether the present
crop of vets are trained in
answering questions on
puppy toilet training as
every puppy home management and
situation is not the same. I
illustrate the following case of
"a couple with child" as an
example.
Puppy:
Japanese Spitz, Male, 4
months
Seller: Commercial Breeder,
Singapore-based. Purchased 3 days
ago.
Buyer: Couple in their 40s. One
10-year-old child. Expatriate.
Equipment sold : Crate + grated
floor + pee pan. Bed. "The puppy
prefers the grated floor," the
wife commented.
Consult: Vaccination voucher. 3rd
vaccination.
Problems:
1.
Car
motion sickness.
Puppy was fed. Vomited inside
carrier bag in a taxi to Surgery.
What is the solution? Short trips
and food treat as a possible
solution.
1. No feeding before vehicle
travel.
2. Short car rides e.g. 5 minutes.
Give food treat at the end of
travel.
Expat has no car as car ownership
is very expensive in Singapore, so
it is not a surprise that the
expatriates have no car but live
in a prime area.
3. Buses and subway travel - dogs
are not permitted. I suggest
putting puppy in a big lady's bag.
Go up the bus. Alight after one
bus-stop. Food treat after
alighting. This may focus the
puppy's mind on the treat. Repeat
for 2 bus-stops and so on.
4. Tranquilisers. Available from
the vet.
2. "Toilet
training. How to do it?,"
the Asian wife wearing a hat with
flowers asked me.
Here are my advices:
1. Do you want to paper-train the
puppy or to use the
floor grate method? Usually
puppies from commercial breeders
in Singapore are used to the floor
grate method. The couple said that
the puppy shreds newspapers
instead of eliminating on them.
"The puppy does not know what the
newspapers are meant to
eliminate," the husband concluded
correctly.
1. History: The puppy had been
crated and the breeder had sold
the couple a crate with a floor
grate + a pee pan below. However,
no instructions or book on how to
use it effectively.
2. Confine to the crate for 2
weeks most of the time. Feed the
puppy outside the crate. Ensure he
finishes his food within 10
minutes. If not, take away the
bowl and put him back into the
crate. He will poop within 15
minutes after eating as in most
puppies not distracted. Water
bottle hung on the crate or a
water bowl.
3. Distraction means a child or
adult petting him while he eats.
The couple and child were guilty.
So, the puppy poops at unknown
times in the apartment. He was
free to roam. So he pees and poops
everywhere.
4. Location of crate. In the
living area where he can see
everybody, except the area where
the couple has meals. The kitchen
(recommended by me) is too small.
This location is not conducive for
toilet training as there are too
many distractions. I suggested the
bathroom for the puppy during meal
times (breakfast and dinner). A
bathroom with a baby gate will be
ideal in this case during meal
times to shut out distractions and
for the puppy to poop.
5. "How about taking the puppy
downstairs twice a day?" the
husband was told by the breeder
not to take the puppy outdoor till
the 3rd vaccination. Yet this dog
must socialise and be used to
public noises and traffic at this
age.
"This puppy can go outdoors
provided he does not go to the
areas where dogs have been, in
case of parvoviral infections from
other dog's stools. Parvoviruses
do kill puppies. Take the puppy
out after he has pooped. Normally,
the puppy poops 2-4X at this age."
The wife said 3X including
overnight.
6. "This puppy pees too many
times," the wife asked if there
was a way to reduce the times. Pee
will flow through the grated floor
into the pee pan.
"At 4 months of age, the puppy
pees around every 3 hours (N-1
formula where N=months). So, he
will pee 8 times in 24 hours. This
formula is a guideline. Control of
the bladder muscle will take
another 2-4 months."
Take away the water at 8 pm. I
forgot to tell the lady as there
were so many questions. It is best
to get all advices written down.
This will take a book to properly
record everything.
7. Clean area (sleeping) and dirty
area (elimination). The
elimination area inside a crate
will be distant from the clean
area.
No normal puppy will eliminate on
sleeping area or soiled
elimination area. I advised prompt
cleaning of the elimination area
though the stools and urine
usually fall through the grate. In
this way, the puppy is encouraged
to use the floor grate for
elimination.
By week 2, let the puppy out into
an extended area which may be 2-4X
the floor area of the crate. The
puppy should be jumping into the
elimination area inside the crate
to pee and poop. Eating, drinking
and possible sleeping area will be
outside the crate.
By week 3, the puppy is free to
roam one or two rooms. All
bedrooms are out of bounds.
By week 4, the puppy has been
either floor grate trained or will
be eliminating in one particular
spot in the bathroom. Each puppy
is different and so it is hard for
me to predict.
|
Dr
Sing's comments:
In conclusion, toilet training has
to start immediately with a
routine of feeding, drinking,
exercise and food treats for
successful performance. No
distractions from children and
adults during the first week or
two. In this case, the wife sought
my toilet-training advices.
Talking about the new "baby" is a
favourite topic of first-time
puppy owners. |
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